Joy Jacket - Video One - Laurens Hints and Tips

Introduction

In this section, Lauren introduces herself and the topic of the video. She explains that she will be discussing tips for making the Chalk and Notch Joy Jacket.

Tips for Making the Jacket

• Lauren discusses the contents of the kit, including sewing machine needles, prim eyelets, threads, cotton twill tape, open-ended zip, woven label, and pattern.

• She recommends watching through the videos completely before starting to get an idea of what's coming up.

• Lauren recommends using size 88 needles for tensile fabric and size 70 needles for viscose lining.

• The kit includes a length of cotton twill tape to stabilize the neckline.

Fabric and Interfacing

In this section, Lauren talks about the fabric and interfacing included in the kit.

Fabric and Interfacing

• The kit includes stretch interfacing which allows drapey fabric like that included in the kit to still drape nicely while adding stability and structure where needed.

• The lining fabric is 100% viscose with a beautiful print. Having a fancy lining makes the garment extra special.

Zipper

In this section, Lauren talks about zipper included in the kit.

Zipper

• The open-ended zipper was custom made by YKK with an antique brass finish on teeth and zip tape that matches outer fabric. There are two different length options available depending on what kit you bought.

• Extra little stops are included for the top of the zip so that you can shorten your zip if needed. Lauren will show how to do this at the end of the video.

Instruction Booklet

In this section, Lauren talks about the instruction booklet included in the kit.

Instruction Booklet

• The instruction booklet is available in your order confirmation email or when you log in to their website and check your order section.

• The pattern comes with a printout for either AB cup size or CD cup size. PDF files for both are also included in the kit.

Prim Eyelets

In this section, Lauren talks about prim eyelets included in the kit.

Prim Eyelets

• Prim eyelets are included for drawstrings at neckline and hemline. They can be optionally put in at waistline as well.

• Lauren will show how to put them in later on in the video.

Conclusion

In this section, Lauren concludes her discussion of tips for making the Chalk and Notch Joy Jacket.

Final Thoughts

• Be sure to use these videos alongside instructions that come with pattern.

• Watching through all videos before starting project is recommended.

• Enjoy sewing and wearing your finished garment!

Overview of Tencel Fabric

In this section, the speaker explains what Tencel fabric is and how it is made.

Making of Tencel Fabric

• Tencel fabric is made from sustainable eucalyptus trees that are pulped down to make cellulose.

• The manufacturing process of Tencel fabric uses a closed-loop system where all byproducts and water used in the process are recovered and reused.

• Tencel fabric is biodegradable, soft, silky, and easy to work with.

Pre-washing and Cutting Out Tencel Fabric

In this section, the speaker provides tips on pre-washing and cutting out Tencel fabric.

Pre-washing Tencel Fabric

• Pre-wash your Tencel fabric at 30 degrees on a normal cycle before cutting it out.

• After air-drying the washed fabric, iron it completely flat before cutting it out for more accurate measurements.

Cutting Out Tencel Fabric

• Choose between A/B cup or C/D cup sizes based on your high bust and full bust measurements.

• Check the finished garment measurement chart for your chosen size to determine the length of the garment.

• If shortening any pattern pieces, ensure that you reflect those changes in the lining pieces as well.

Choosing Your Size for Sewing with Tencel Fabric

In this section, the speaker explains how to choose your size when sewing with Tencel fabric.

Measuring for Cup Size

• Measure your high bust and full bust to determine whether you are in the A/B cup range or the C/D cup range.

• Dressmaker's cup size is different from bra size.

Choosing Your Size

• The sizing for Tencel fabric is true to size.

• Check the finished garment measurement chart for your chosen size to determine the length of the garment.

Sizing and Adjustments for Sewing with Tencel Fabric

In this section, the speaker provides tips on sizing and adjustments when sewing with Tencel fabric.

Sizing

• The speaker's body measurements put her in a 4 for bust, 6 for waist, and between 2 and 4 at hips.

• She made a straight size 4 because there was negative ease at waist and hips.

Adjustments

• The arms may come up long, so consider shortening them by rolling up the hem of sleeves.

• The length of the jacket may be longer than expected, so check finished garment measurement chart before cutting out pattern pieces.

• For something different, consider shortening jacket by five and a half inches.

Cutting Out Fabric

In this section, the speaker provides tips on how to cut out fabric, especially when working with slippery fabrics like lining and outer fabric.

Tips for Cutting Out Fabric

• Lay the fabric on a surface where it can slip and move easily.

• Fold the fabric so that selvages are together and square them up to the straight edge of the table.

• Ensure that fibers woven in the fabric sit at 90 degrees to each other.

• Use a pressing cloth when putting interfacing on.

Cutting Layout for Interfacing

In this section, the speaker explains how to lay out pattern pieces for interfacing.

Laying Out Pattern Pieces for Interfacing

• Grain lines don't need to be parallel or at 90 degrees as long as they're not diagonal.

• Use a pressing cloth when putting interfacing on.

General Tips Before Constructing Garment

In this section, the speaker provides general tips before constructing the garment.

General Tips Before Constructing Garment

• Read every single section of written instructions instead of relying solely on illustrations.

• Seam allowance is one centimeter except for outer arm seam which is two centimeters.

• Manipulate fabric before putting interfacing on shaped pieces like facing sections.

Note that the transcript is not in English, but the summary and study notes should be written in English.

Tips for Sewing the Raglan Sleeve

In this section, the instructor provides tips on how to sew a diagonal raglan sleeve and ensure that all notches and tailor's tacks are marked over the whole garment.

Pressing Seam Allowances and Marking Notches

• Press seam allowances of the diagonal raglan sleeve towards the sleeve, ensuring that it is pressed from the back first.

• Check from the front that the seam is open before topstitching to avoid making the seam allowance bigger which can affect garment fit.

• Ensure all notches and tailor's tacks are marked over the whole garment, especially for hood construction where there are quite a lot of notches on that center panel.

Attaching Collar or Hood onto Main Outer Bodice

• Match up collar/hood with main outer bodice by pinning in at 90 degrees.

• Pin in your twill tape so that when you sew your one centimeter seam allowance you will sew through it as well.

• When constructing lining, sew center back pleat of lining fabric before sewing little section of pleating at top.

Attaching Facing Sections onto Main Part of Bodice Lining

• Put facing on bottom hemline first so that it gives full length of lining before attaching facing with curved section at back neckline facing to bits coming down front.

• Create a little pleat in lining by folding notch over to seam line where facing and lining meets.

• Catch hanging loop when attaching body part of lining to either collar or hood. Clip seam allowances if doing hood section and press up towards hood before topstitching.

Adjusting the Fit and Pocket Placement

In this section, the speaker provides tips on adjusting the fit of the jacket and placing pockets correctly.

Adjusting Fit

• The seam allowance can be adjusted differently at different parts of the seam.

• The fit on the arms is fairly snug, but it can be adapted to personal preference.

• Changing side seams or taking in underarm areas can help with bagginess.

Pocket Placement

• Pin pockets on before sewing them to check if they are in the right position.

• For a cropped version, shorten pocket length by two inches for better proportions.

• Any changes made to outer jacket must also be reflected in lining.

Shortening an Open-ended Zipper

This section covers how to shorten an open-ended zipper for a shorter jacket length.

• Lay out finished outer jacket and determine new zip length needed.

• Mark where new top of zipper will be with chalk or chico liner.

• Cut zip tape between teeth about an inch above marked point.

• Use pliers to pull teeth out of zip tape up to marked point.

Shortening a Zipper

In this section, the instructor explains how to shorten a zipper.

Shortening the Zipper

• Make sure you have strength in your hands and arms to pull the zipper teeth out.

• Check that both sides of the zipper are symmetrical and level.

• Use pliers to hold a little U-shape piece and insert the tape of the zipper into it. Squeeze the pliers so that they grip onto the tape of the zip. Do this on both sides.

• The newly shortened zip is now ready to sew on.

Conclusion

This concludes video one. The next video will bring everything together and finish off the project.