Los Mezcales del Occidente de México y la Destilación Prehispánica

The Origins and Diversity of Mezcal Production

Historical Context of Mezcal

• The region around the Colima volcanoes in southern Jalisco is known for producing artisanal mezcals with over 20 varieties of agave.

• Researchers Daniel Zizumbo and Patricia Colunga have uncovered evidence that indigenous populations have been making mezcal since at least the late 16th century, incorporating pre-Hispanic elements except for the distiller, which has Asian origins.

• They present botanical, toponymic, archaeological, ethnographic, and historical evidence suggesting that the distillation of fermented agave juices originated in western Mexico's river basins.

Cultural Significance and Terminology

• The term "mezcal" derives from a word meaning "cooked maguey," referring to the cooked heads of agave used in production; however, it can also refer to agaves themselves in various regions.

• Agave is the largest genus in the Asparagaceae family with about 200 species; 150 are found in Mexico, with 116 endemic to the country.

Agave Propagation Methods

• The most cultivated variety for tequila is Agave tequilana Weber (blue agave), which primarily propagates through sexual reproduction via flowering stalks called quiotes or vegetative propagation through bulbils.

• Due to high demand from the tequila industry, propagation methods favor vegetative reproduction as it produces clones quickly.

Genetic Diversity and Research Findings

• Attempts have been made to locate wild populations of Agave tequilana Weber but without success; genetic diversity may stem from wild populations of Agave angustifolia found in southern Jalisco.

• Zizumbo and Colunga's research indicates that significant genetic diversity exists near Colima volcanoes compared to traditional tequila-producing valleys.

Ancestral Practices and Modern Implications

• Ancient producers likely continued illegal mezcal production after its prohibition by Spanish authorities; they selected plants based on local biodiversity.

The Tradition and Techniques of Mezcal Production

Selection and Propagation of Agave

• Macario explains the importance of selecting agave plants that yield high-quality mezcal, focusing on traits such as sweetness, size, and disease resistance.

• Criteria for selection include sweeter juices, larger stems, softer texture for easier milling, early production of offshoots, and resilience against pests and diseases.

Cultural Significance of Agave

• A toponymic study reveals localities named after agave or its products, indicating cultural and economic significance in the region.

• Fifteen human settlements related to agave were documented within the study area, showcasing names like "mezcal" which reflect the plant's importance.

Historical Context of Distillation

• Researchers Danielle and Patricia visit ancient distilleries near rivers and valleys to uncover historical practices in mezcal production.

• Archaeological evidence suggests these distilleries have been active since colonial times; 38 local distilleries (tabernas) were identified, with many abandoned.

Traditional Production Methods

• The region is noted for its ancient methods still in use today; families continue traditional practices passed down through generations since pre-Hispanic times.

• After harvesting agave heads, the process begins with "tapada," involving careful heating in underground ovens using volcanic stones.

Fermentation Process

• The cooking process involves layering wet bagasse between cooked agave heads to prevent burning during slow heating over three days.

• In one historic taberna along the Armería River, ten ovens are used for mezcal production; some date back to colonial times.

Ancient Techniques Still Practiced

• Cooked agave heads are rich in sugars; they are crushed using traditional tools called majaderas before fermentation begins.

• Fermentation occurs in a subterranean cistern made from impermeable rock; this process can take weeks compared to tequila's two-day fermentation.

The Fermentation and Distillation of Agave in Colima

Diversity of Microorganisms in Fermentation

• Each locality's fermentation process involves a high diversity of microorganisms, contributing to the unique flavors and aromas of local mezcals.

• Fermentation pits are sealed with various materials such as plastic, petate (woven mats), stones, wood, and earth.

Traditional Production Techniques

• The production processes observed are rooted in pre-Hispanic origins, contrasting with the clearly Asian-influenced distillation technology introduced later.

• The distiller consists of a hollowed trunk with a lower container for boiling fermented agave juice.

Distillation Process

• Alcohol vapors rise through the trunk at lower temperatures than water, condensing upon contact with water in the copper case above.

• The family’s method illustrates that after fermentation, agave juice is placed into a copper pot capable of holding up to 200 liters for distillation.

Enhancing Flavor Profiles

• To enhance the agave flavor in mezcal, crushed agave is added to the fermenting mixture before distillation begins.

• A wooden spoon is used to collect distilled liquid while ensuring proper sealing during the process.

Historical Context and Influence

• This distillation technology was brought by Asians via trade routes established by Spaniards; it remains relevant today in regions like Infanta, Philippines.

• Fray Antonio de Tello documented coconut wine distillation techniques in 1623 that closely resemble those used for agave.

Similarities Between Distillers

• Cultural geographer Henry Bruman noted similarities between Filipino coconut wine distillers and those found in Mexico during his research.

• Bruman proposed that indigenous populations began using Filipino-style stills for agave beverages around the 16th century.

Diffusion of Distilling Technology

• Research from 1977 suggested specific diffusion routes for mezcal production technology from southern Jalisco to other Mexican regions.

• The rudimentary Filipino still differs significantly from Arab still designs introduced by Spaniards which utilize copper coil coolers.

Investigating Historical Evidence

• Researchers Patricia Colunga and Danielle Zizumbo focused on tracing historical documents related to Filipino still usage across western Mexico.

• Early documentation indicates that Filipinos were involved in coconut wine production shortly after their arrival in Colima post-1571.

Establishment of Coconut Wine Distillation

• Coconut sap was harvested and fermented before being distilled into liquor; this process shows parallels with agave fermentation practices.

• By 1600, coconut liquor distillation was well-established in Colima as evidenced by municipal records mentioning its production among local indigenous groups.

Production and Prohibition of Coconut Liquor

Historical Context of Haciendas

• In the early 1600s, haciendas produced approximately 232,000 liters of coconut liquor annually, driven by demand in mining regions such as Guanajuato, Pachuca, Zacatecas, San Luis Potosí, and Chihuahua.

• One significant hacienda was located near the Salado River in Ixtlahuacán. Records indicate that both coconut wine and mezcal were produced simultaneously in this area.

Regulatory Measures

• The Real Audiencia prohibited the production and sale of coconut wine in 1603, with further bans issued in 1610 and a total ban on palm tree cutting due to competition with Castilian wines by 1612.

• Early documents from the 17th century suggest that mezcal was recognized as a distilled beverage by Spaniards.

Mezcal Production Techniques

Documentation of Mezcal Production

• A document from 1616 mandates tithes on mezcal wine production in Ávalos province (now Jalisco), indicating its significance among both Indigenous peoples and Spaniards.

• The first detailed account of mezcal production comes from Domingo de Lázaro de Arregui's narrative in 1619, describing how mezcales are processed into a potent drink.

Distillation Process

• The introduction of distillation was rapid; it became appealing for local producers due to its simplicity.

• Local distillers utilized small Filipino stills made from accessible materials alongside underground fermenters for clandestine operations.

Trade Routes and Cultural Exchange

Commercial Networks

• Extensive trade routes facilitated the transport of various goods including salt, cacao, cotton pottery pieces, shells, and jewelry since pre-Columbian times.

• By the 18th century, tequila gained popularity; Spanish methods like circular milling (known as tahona) were adopted to meet rising demand.

Archaeological Insights into Agave Use

Historical Research Collaboration

• Researchers Patricia Colunga and Daniel collaborated with archaeologist Fernando González Osaia to explore historical evidence regarding distilled beverages made from agave plants.

• Their findings revealed that agave distillation may have occurred over three thousand five hundred years ago.

Prehistoric Significance of Agave

• Before agriculture developed, species of agave served as a vital food source for hunter-gatherer populations in arid regions of pre-Hispanic Mexico.

• Archaeological evidence indicates that floral peduncles were used similarly for thousands of years across various regions including Oaxaca.

Continued Importance of Agave

Modern Relevance

Archaeological Insights into Agave Culture

Excavation Sites and Findings

• A total of 26 ovens have been excavated across 11 archaeological sites on the southern slope of the Colima volcano, including locations like Avenida Constitución and Santa Barbara.

• The sites range from small domestic units with minor ovens to large civic ceremonial areas featuring substantial ovens similar to those used by contemporary artisans.

• One notable oven is a conical pit measuring 1.4 meters in diameter and 0.8 meters high, indicating its use for cooking agaves in a domestic context near residential remains and agricultural terraces.

Ceremonial Context of Ovens

• At La Campana, 11 ovens were found within a ceremonial structure with a nearly 20-meter-long staircase, suggesting public access for collective rituals.

• The significance of agave culture is highlighted through various ceramic pieces that date back approximately 1500 years, from the Ortiz phase (400 BCE) to the Chanal phase (1100 CE).

Ceramic Artifacts and Their Significance

• Recent discoveries at Santa Barbara include ceramics depicting diverse agave varieties, specifically designed as offerings for mature individuals in burial contexts.

• Identified species include Agave maximiliana and Agave angustifolia, which are crucial for understanding ancient agave utilization.

Ritual Consumption Practices

• Additional evidence includes clay figures representing agave harvesting and ritual consumption practices involving pulque, hinting at mezcal consumption as well.

• Earlier findings by Isabel Kelly in the 1970s introduced capacha ceramics linked to distillation processes; these artifacts suggest advanced techniques may have existed much earlier than previously thought.

Distillation Hypotheses and Experiments

• Joseph Needham's research proposed similarities between ancient Chinese distillers and pre-Hispanic capacha vessels dating back around 3500 years.

• An experiment was conducted using replicas of capacha vessels to explore their potential role in early distillation methods related to cooking beans while capturing vapor condensation.

Experimental Methodology

• The experiment involved traditional materials under controlled conditions with assistance from local experts to maintain appropriate temperatures during cooking processes.

Distillation Techniques and Cultural Significance of Mezcal

Distillation Processes in Prehispanic Mexico

• The alcohol vapors rise through hollow tubes of the Trinidad vessel, condensing upon contact with a clay cooler filled with water, resulting in an average yield of 47 milliliters of distillate at 32% ethanol concentration.

• In contrast, the bubble-type vessel allows alcoholic vapors to rise freely and condense into droplets, yielding approximately 72 milliliters of distillate with a lower ethanol concentration of 20%.

• Results indicate that distillation using capacha vessels produced limited quantities of beverage, suggesting consumption was likely restricted to social elites such as leaders, warriors, or priests during ceremonial contexts.

Archaeological Findings and Technological Implications

• Ongoing chemical analyses are investigating residues in distilling leaves from a recently discovered capacha vessel in a prehispanic burial site in Colima; confirming its use would imply contemporary technology to early Chinese distillation practices dating back 3,500 years.

• Various regional museums exhibit complexes of vessels that illustrate the evolutionary process from frijolera pots to capacha-type distillers. This evolution suggests advancements in design for more efficient distillation methods over time.

Historical Perspectives on Distillation

• Anthropologist Carlón Halls first proposed the possibility of prehispanic distillation based on findings related to Coras' usage; however, he noted similarities with Filipino influences. A different internal liquor capture device found among Huicholes led him to suggest it might be prehispanic due to its rustic elements.

• Bruman contested this notion by comparing it to Mongolian internal capture stills but recent research indicates that Huichol devices may have Mesoamerican rather than Chinese influences due to geographical proximity. This opens avenues for further studies on Huichol distillation technology.

Cultural Heritage and Production Challenges

• Evidence supporting the rich cultural heritage surrounding mezcal production includes diverse agave species, numerous local names associated with agave cultivation and mezcal production, as well as historical references documenting traditional cooking methods for agave heads in underground ovens.

• Researchers Patricia Columna, Daniel Zizumbo, and Fernando González propose that mezcal's origins likely trace back to river basins near Armería and Ayuquila rivers along with volcanic regions in southern Jalisco and northern Colima—potentially influencing wine production techniques later seen in Amatitán and Tequila valleys.

Legal Protections for Mezcal Production

• There is an urgent need for legal measures to protect the artisanal richness inherent in mezcal production from southern Jalisco; without these protections, this cultural wealth risks being lost entirely. Suggestions include revising the current designation of origin regulations which currently limit recognition only to five species across seven states despite actual production involving 40 species across 26 states nationwide.