Tremaine Emory on Denim Tears, Why He Quit Supreme, and Illustrious Career in Fashion

Name: Tremaine Emory on Denim Tears, Why He Quit Supreme, and Illustrious Career in Fashion
Uploaded: 2023-09-29T14:18:28.000Z
Duration: 2 h 50 min 5 s

Tremaine Emery's Experience at Supreme

In this section, Tremaine Emery discusses his experience working at Supreme and the challenges he faced.

Working at Supreme

Tremaine worked at Supreme for two years, with the first year being cool.

He describes his time at Supreme as a struggle from the beginning, facing obstacles that hindered his creativity.

The work environment was like a "whack-a-mole" situation where he couldn't fully express himself creatively.

Allegations of Systemic Racism and Controversial Designs

This section focuses on Tremaine Emery's allegations of systemic racism at Supreme and the controversy surrounding designs featuring images of black people being lynched.

Allegations of Systemic Racism

Tremaine resigned from his position as creative director at Supreme after alleging systemic racism within the company.

These allegations came in the midst of working with a major artist on a line that included controversial designs depicting black people being lynched.

Tremaine Emery's Artistic Journey

This section explores Tremaine Emery's artistic journey in the fashion world and his collaborations with notable figures such as Yeezy and Virgil Abloh.

Artistic Journey

Tremaine has had an incredible career in the fashion world, working with Yeezy on clothes and albums, as well as collaborating with Virgil Abloh.

He is known for creating culture through fashion and using it as a medium to express his voice.

Developing Language Through Fashion

In this section, Tremaine Emery discusses how he developed his language through fashion and storytelling.

Developing Language

Tremaine's language of expression developed from a young age, influenced by his parents' style and the people he encountered in Harlem, Georgia.

He was inspired by family members with great style and storytelling through movies, particularly black exploitation films and Spike Lee's work.

Early Influences on Style and Storytelling

This section focuses on the early influences that shaped Tremaine Emery's style and storytelling abilities.

Early Influences

Tremaine's parents owned a video store where influential figures like Kuji Rap and Salt-N-Pepa would come to rent tapes.

Play from Kid 'n Play worked at the video store and introduced Tremaine to design, as he was both a fashion designer and musician.

Movies, such as "Chinatown" and "Popo Greenwich Village," played a significant role in shaping his sense of style.

Stylish Figures in Tremaine Emery's Life

This section highlights the stylish figures who had an impact on Tremaine Emery's life.

Stylish Figures

Family members like Uncle Ray and cousin Anthony, who lived in Japan, had great style that influenced Tremaine.

Anthony introduced him to Japanese anime movies, clothing, and ephemera from Japan.

The storytelling in movies also contributed to his understanding of style.

Films with Memorable Style

In this section, Tremaine Emery discusses films that left a lasting impression on him in terms of their style.

Memorable Films

"Chinatown" featuring Jack Nicholson is one film that stands out for its fashion influence.

Other notable films include Bruce Lee films, black exploitation movies like "Dolomite," and Spike Lee's "She's Gotta Have It."

These notes provide a comprehensive summary of the transcript, highlighting key points and insights from Tremaine Emery's interview. The timestamps are used to link to specific parts of the video for easy reference.

Affirmative Action and Early Career

This section discusses the speaker's experience with affirmative action and his early career as a news cameraman.

Affirmative Action and Job in News Camerawork

The speaker mentions that he needed affirmative action to get his job as an Emmy award-winning news cameraman.

He highlights that despite having the highest discharge from the Army, where he learned motion picture shooting, he still required affirmative action for employment.

The speaker also mentions watching Spike Lee films and Westerns, which influenced him.

Black Man as a Fashion Designer

In this section, the speaker talks about his upbringing and how being a black man as a fashion designer was not initially seen as a possibility.

Influence of Parents

The speaker's parents encouraged him to pursue his interest in clothing and style from a young age.

His father advised him to put his own name on his jeans, showing support for his passion.

The speaker recalls starting his first pop-up with a brand called "No Vacation" and receiving encouragement from his father.

Encouragement to Think Independently

This section focuses on the importance of independent thinking instilled by the speaker's parents.

Independent Thinking

The speaker's father emphasized thinking for oneself and questioning everything, even what they were told by their parents.

He shares how his dad encouraged him to make choices based on personal filters rather than blindly following others' advice.

The speaker mentions that even when he graduated high school, his father advised him to pursue happiness rather than just focusing on making money.

Pursuing Passion in Art and Music

Here, the speaker discusses pursuing his passion in art and music while reflecting on conversations with his mother.

Pursuing Passion

The speaker's mother supported his pursuit of art and music, acknowledging his love for these fields.

He mentions working with notable figures like Frank Ocean, ASAP Rocky, and Serge Becker in the early stages of his career.

The speaker recalls a conversation with his mother where she expressed happiness that he found a way to make a living doing what he loves.

Exposure to Art and Cultural Experiences

This section highlights the speaker's exposure to art and cultural experiences during their upbringing.

Cultural Experiences

The speaker credits their parents for taking them to museums and exposing them to various cultural events.

They recall attending a free performance by Pavarotti at Central Park with the Harlem Boys Choir, which left a lasting impression on them.

The speaker emphasizes how their weekends were filled with adventurous activities instead of just watching TV.

Influences from Music and Artists

In this section, the speaker discusses growing up in Jamaica Queens and being influenced by musicians and artists from their neighborhood.

Musical Influences

The speaker mentions influential artists from their neighborhood, such as LL Cool J, A Tribe Called Quest, Run DMC, among others.

They highlight how these musical influences shaped their perspective on storytelling through films and style choices.

Timestamps are provided for each section based on the available transcript.

The Move to Saint Albans

In this section, the speaker discusses their family's move to Saint Albans, a prosperous middle-class black community that was affected by the crack epidemic. They share how their parents moved there due to financial constraints and the difficulty they faced in finding housing.

The Crack Epidemic and Moving to Saint Albans

The speaker's parents moved to Saint Albans because it was one of the most prosperous middle-class black communities in America until the crack epidemic hit.

Due to financial constraints, their parents couldn't afford a house and had difficulties finding housing.

The speaker's father recalls trying to find a house for their family but facing discrimination and being hung up on when calling places.

Eventually, they found a place in Flushing after struggling to secure a meeting with landlords.

However, they couldn't afford a house in Flushing or other areas like Bayside Queens, so they ended up moving to Saint Albans.

Life in Saint Albans

In this section, the speaker reflects on their experiences living in Saint Albans. They describe both the dangers present in the neighborhood as well as the fun and sense of community they experienced.

Living in Saint Albans

When they first moved to Saint Albans, there were incidents of violence nearby, including shootings at a Jamaican spot.

Despite warnings from their father not to hang out on certain corners due to safety concerns, the speaker admits that they did not always listen.

They recall seeing people riding BMX bikes with smoking guns on their block during their first week there.

The neighborhood had an air of danger but also provided opportunities for fun and camaraderie. It was like a mix of "Boys in the Hood" and "The Sandlot."

Becoming the Creative Director of Supreme

In this section, the speaker discusses how they became the first creative director at Supreme. They mention their previous work with denim tears and their connections within the industry.

Becoming the Creative Director of Supreme

The speaker was approached by Julian Khan and Kyle Demers, who were associated with Supreme.

They had known James Jebbia, the founder of Supreme, for a long time as casual acquaintances.

The speaker's career was already established before joining Supreme, with projects like Denim Tears and collaborations with Virgil Abloh.

Their connections within the fashion industry, including hanging out at Union store owned by James Jebbia in SoHo, contributed to their visibility.

When offered the position of creative director at Supreme, the speaker initially reacted calmly but expressed interest in working with such an iconic brand.

Importance of Fashion and Community

In this section, the speaker reflects on their perspective regarding fashion's importance and its impact on culture and community.

Importance of Fashion and Community

While acknowledging that aesthetics and design are important in fashion, the speaker emphasizes that it is not as crucial as saving lives.

However, when fashion properly supports culture and community, it can have a significant impact.

The speaker believes that when aesthetics are harnessed effectively to support culture and tribe, fashion can even save lives.

They mention their various ongoing projects at the time they were offered the role at Supreme but express gratitude for being recognized due to their work with Denim Tears.

The transcript provided does not contain any further timestamps or sections.

The Struggle of Being a Creative Director

In this section, the speaker discusses their experience as a creative director and the challenges they faced in expressing their creativity.

Challenges Faced as a Creative Director

The speaker describes their role as a creative director and how they were not allowed to be the creative person they wanted to be. It was like a "whack-a-mole" situation where they had to constantly deal with obstacles.

James Jebbia, the creative director of Supreme, had trouble letting go and allowing the speaker to fully express their creativity. Insecurities played a role in this struggle.

The c-suite at Supreme was thoughtless about bringing in a creative director in general, especially an African-American creative director like the speaker who had a brand called Denim Tears that focused on African-American experiences.

The speaker's purpose with Denim Tears is to use clothing as a vehicle to convey political ideologies and messages related to the plight and glory of African Americans.

Political Ideology in Denim Tears

In this section, the speaker talks about the political ideology behind their brand Denim Tears and how it aims to bring forward messages about African-American experiences.

Political Background of Denim Tears

Denim Tears incorporates political themes into its designs. One example is a shirt that says "Late Capitalism" juxtaposed with images of cotton fields, symbolizing how capitalism was jump-started by industries like cotton production that exploited African Americans.

The speaker explains that denim tears is influenced by their art background, fashion background, and political beliefs. They see fashion as an important medium for expression due to consumerism and capitalism's focus on making money.

Through Denim Tears, the speaker aims to use fashion as a Trojan Horse to convey messages and raise awareness about social and political issues.

Expressing Messages Through Fashion

In this section, the speaker discusses their approach to using fashion as a means of expression and how it relates to their artistic background.

Using Fashion as a Vehicle for Expression

The speaker explains that if they had lived in different eras, they might have pursued writing or painting. However, growing up in a time where fashion is highly influential, they see it as one of the most important expressions for young people.

They believe that fashion can be used to convey messages and ideas due to its association with consumerism. By incorporating political ideologies into their designs, the speaker aims to use fashion as a way to reach a wider audience.

Collaboration with Arthur Jafa

In this section, the speaker talks about collaborating with artist Arthur Jafa and their role as a creative director in guiding collaborations.

Collaborating with Arthur Jafa

The speaker mentions their collaboration with artist Arthur Jafa. They express admiration for Jafa's work and mention reaching out to him through their network.

As a creative director, part of their role is having connections within the industry. They leverage these connections to bring artists like Jafa on board for collaborations.

The speaker explains that being a creative director involves guiding design teams, providing vision and direction through mood boards and collaboration. They highlight the importance of working together rather than creating competition among designers.

Due to limitations in available content from the transcript, this summary may not capture all aspects discussed in the video.

AJ's Artwork and Collaboration with Supreme

In this section, the speaker discusses AJ's artwork and his collaboration with Supreme.

AJ's Artwork and Collaboration

AJ presents "La Rage," his avatar representing a black Hulk with a fro, gold teeth, and tattoos. It symbolizes his inner rage as a black man living in a white patriarchal world.

Another artwork by AJ is "Gordon," which depicts the slave pose of whipped Peter Gordon. The speaker mentions the presence of similar imagery in books like "Without Sanctuary" and AJ's book called "Magnum."

The speaker questions whether it is appropriate for a white brand like Supreme to profit from these images without donating to organizations like NAACP. They mention that James Shipya, who has the final say at Supreme, believes it is important for people to see these images because they still happen to black people.

Customer Reaction to Provocative Artwork

This section explores the potential reaction of customers when presented with provocative artwork by Supreme.

Customer Reaction

The speaker compares the potential customer reaction to previous provocative artworks released by Supreme, such as T-shirts featuring Catholic nuns or controversial art pieces involving bodily fluids. They note that while Supreme has released provocative art before, they have not done so with black artists until now.

The speaker mentions that they believed their role was to bring in an artist like AJ, who is highly acclaimed and has won the Golden Lion award. They did not anticipate any negative reactions from customers.

Hypothetical Customer Reaction

In this section, the speaker contemplates how a typical Supreme customer might react to wearing a shirt with provocative artwork.

Hypothetical Reaction

The speaker wonders how a 22-year-old Supreme customer would react to wearing a shirt featuring an image of a black man whipped up. They acknowledge that some customers might have mixed feelings or be taken aback by such imagery. However, they believe that intelligent customers who are familiar with Supreme's history of provocative art would understand the intention behind it.

This summary covers specific sections of the transcript and provides concise information based on the given timestamps.

Systemic Racism and Thoughtlessness

The speaker discusses how systemic racism, misogyny, and homophobia are often perpetuated through thoughtlessness rather than intentional hatred. They highlight the importance of recognizing privilege and being mindful of the impact it has on marginalized communities.

The Lack of Communication and Thoughtfulness

The speaker criticizes the lack of communication within organizations when working with artists from marginalized communities.

They emphasize that thoughtlessness, rather than overt racism or discrimination, is often the root cause of systemic issues.

Privilege plays a role in this thoughtlessness as individuals may not consider the experiences and perspectives of others.

White Privilege and Systemic Racial Issues

A conversation between the speaker and James Jebby highlights how white privilege can go unnoticed by those who possess it.

The speaker suggests that if someone only recently realized their white privilege, there may be systemic racial issues within their company.

They discuss how systemic racial issues persist because future generations are not educated about past injustices.

Black Culture Representation in Supreme

This section focuses on the representation of Black culture in Supreme's products. It explores examples such as Martin Luther King t-shirts, MF Doom shirts, and Prodigy's image while discussing the significance behind these choices.

Black Culture Representation in Supreme Products

Supreme is known for releasing products that showcase elements of Black culture through streetwear.

Examples include Martin Luther King t-shirts, MF Doom shirts, Andre 3000 references, Mike Tyson shirts, Dip set merchandise, and a Prodigy image from his time in jail.

These products raise questions about intentionality and whether they contribute positively or negatively to cultural representation.

Conversations About Representation at Supreme

This section delves into conversations surrounding representation at Supreme and the impact of imagery on different individuals. It highlights a conversation between the speaker and James Jebby, discussing their perspectives on African-American representation.

Imagined or Real Conversations

The speaker recalls a conversation with James Jebby regarding African-American representation at Supreme.

They question whether it is possible for systemic racial issues to exist within a company that only recently acknowledged white privilege.

The conversation involves one Black designer who resigned and another employee who quit due to dissatisfaction with the company's actions.

Tension, Discourse, and Visual Representation

This section explores the importance of tension, discourse, and visual representation in creating awareness and promoting dialogue about social issues. The speaker discusses their intentions behind incorporating provocative imagery into Supreme's products.

Creating Tension for Discourse

The speaker believes that tension created through provocative imagery can lead to meaningful discourse.

They use an analogy of physical tension prompting someone to seek medical attention as an example of how tension can spark thought and action.

Their goal is not to solely focus on their own experiences but rather explore the plights and cultures of all people through clothing and fashion.

Lynching Imagery and Confronting Uncomfortable Topics

This section delves into the use of lynching imagery by the speaker in their work. It addresses concerns raised by some individuals while emphasizing the importance of confronting uncomfortable topics.

Confronting Lynching Imagery

Some individuals express discomfort with the use of lynching imagery by the speaker.

However, they believe it is crucial to confront such topics directly rather than avoiding them.

By bringing these images into public consciousness, they aim to foster discussion and reflection on issues like lynching.

Exploring Plights and Cultures Through Fashion

This section focuses on the speaker's approach to exploring various plights and cultures through fashion. They emphasize their commitment to caring about the experiences of all people and celebrating diversity.

Exploring Plights and Cultures

The speaker sees themselves as a human being first, prioritizing empathy for all individuals.

They express a genuine interest in understanding and representing different cultures through clothing and fashion.

While some may consider them proficient in designing sportswear and menswear, they remain open to varying opinions on their skills.

The transcript provided does not cover the entire video, so these notes are based solely on the given content.

Ownership of Art and Gallery Representation

In this section, the speaker discusses their ownership of art and the representation of artists in galleries.

Ownership of Art

The speaker mentions being one of the few black people who own a particular artwork.

They received the artwork as a gift from someone.

Most buyers are wealthy and not concerned about the artist's background.

The speaker emphasizes their love for the artwork and being one of only two owners in the world.

Gallery Representation

The gallery that previously represented the artist was owned by a white British man.

Currently, AJ's Gallery is owned by a white woman.

The speaker questions whether galleries donate funds to organizations or communities related to the artists they represent.

They express concern about marginalized communities not having access to galleries but being aware of brands like Supreme.

Stories and Tensions in Popular Culture

This section focuses on storytelling in popular culture and tensions faced by marginalized communities.

The speaker highlights how AJ tells amazing stories that should be pushed into popular culture.

They mention that many kids from their background are unaware of galleries but know about brands like Supreme.

There is tension created when people have to deal with ongoing issues faced by black men and women in America, which can be traced back to historical relationships since 1619.

Denim Tears and Historical Significance

Here, the speaker talks about Denim Tears as a response to historical events and their significance.

The speaker states that if black men and women no longer face oppression, they would focus solely on designing fun clothing under Denim Tears brand.

They mention that Denim Tears represents historical events dating back to 1619, including the establishment of schools in the South.

The speaker highlights the banning and denial of historical truths related to black people's experiences as slaves.

Collaboration and Diverse Ideas

This section explores collaboration, diverse ideas, and the speaker's role within Supreme.

The speaker mentions collaborating with various artists like Fiona Apple, MF Doom, and Andre 3000.

They clarify that their work is not solely focused on one theme or concept.

The speaker discusses a meeting where they expressed their concerns about working with another black artist who tells similar stories through Supreme.

Their goal is to include black artists who want to tell the story of black people within Supreme's creative mix.

Lack of Communication and Representation

In this section, the speaker addresses issues of communication and representation within Supreme.

The speaker points out that they were not included in discussions about a project for four months despite being part of the c-suite as a creative director.

They mention being the only black person in the c-suite among white individuals.

The lack of communication raises questions about racial bias and exclusionary practices within the company.

Considering Artists' Stories

Here, the speaker discusses considering artists' stories before making collaborations.

During a discussion about working with another black artist, Lauren Halsey, someone suggests considering her work alongside AJ's.

The speaker emphasizes the importance of understanding whether they want to work with artists who tell stories about black people through Supreme.

They express concern about maintaining artistic integrity while also continuing Supreme's tradition of creating impactful designs.

Historical Figures and Controversial Collaborations

This section focuses on Supreme's collaborations related to historical figures and controversial artists.

The speaker mentions Supreme's previous collaborations featuring Martin Luther King, Malcolm X, and Haile Selassie.

They highlight the initial negative reception of these figures by white people during their lifetimes.

The speaker also mentions a discussion about collaborating with NBA young boy, expressing concerns about his alleged abusive behavior towards women.

Timestamps are approximate and may vary slightly.

The Difference Between Music and Art

In this section, the speaker discusses the difference between music and art, particularly in relation to Supreme. They highlight their resignation from Supreme due to the company's thoughtlessness and lack of response when addressing important issues.

The Lack of Diversity in Supreme's Collaborations

The speaker points out that while Supreme represents various artists on their t-shirts, a majority of these artists are black.

When it comes to collaborations where an artist's work is featured on a skateboard, only two black artists have been included in 30 years.

The speaker emphasizes that this lack of diversity reflects broader societal issues regarding representation.

Black Culture and Its Influence on Supreme

The speaker mentions that Supreme heavily relies on black culture for its clothing designs and style.

They suggest creating a t-shirt that highlights the disproportionate number of black men in jail compared to college as a way to address important social issues.

The speaker questions why there is such a strong reaction to the AJ painting when it simply reflects existing realities.

Resignation Due to Thoughtlessness and Lack of Response

The speaker clarifies that they resigned not solely because of the AJ project but also because of Supreme's thoughtlessness and failure to respond adequately.

A black employee at Supreme expressed concerns about how the company profited off black trauma through their artwork.

This employee's valid points sparked important discourse within the company, but ultimately no action was taken.

Importance of Representation in Corporate Settings

In this section, the speaker explains how their resignation from Supreme was influenced by discussions around representation within corporate settings. They emphasize the importance of diverse perspectives being heard and valued.

Validity of Different Opinions

The speaker acknowledges that both their own opinions and the opinions of the black employee at Supreme are valid.

They stress that there is no right or wrong when it comes to discussing issues of representation and diversity.

Lack of Black Representation in Design

The black employee expressed concerns about the lack of black people on the design floor at Supreme, despite the brand's heavy reliance on black culture for its image.

The speaker shares their own experiences working in various companies where they were often one of the few black employees.

Meeting with the Black Employee

The speaker expected a discussion about the AJ project during a meeting with the black employee but instead learned about their struggles as a minority within the company.

The employee questioned how to flourish and survive in an environment where black images and styles were used, but there was little representation behind-the-scenes.

Systemic Issues in Business Growth

In this section, the speaker reflects on systemic issues that arise as businesses grow. They discuss their conversation with James Jeb regarding diversity within Denim Tears and emphasize the need to be mindful of inclusivity.

Seepage of Systemic Issues

The speaker highlights that as businesses grow, systemic issues tend to seep into their operations.

They mention their conversation with James Jeb, who started Supreme with a diverse team but acknowledges that systemic issues can still arise over time.

Ensuring Diversity at Denim Tears

The speaker emphasizes their commitment to ensuring diversity within Denim Tears and avoiding creating a boys club atmosphere.

They acknowledge their own tendency to defer to men and express a need for increased awareness in promoting inclusivity.

This summary provides an overview of key points discussed in specific sections of the transcript. It is important to review the full transcript for complete context.

Inclusion and Diversity in the Fashion Industry

The speaker discusses the importance of including people from different sexual orientations and backgrounds in the fashion industry.

Importance of Inclusion

It is important to include people of different sexual orientations and backgrounds in order to successfully create diverse clothing.

The lack of diversity in workspaces goes against what influential figures like Muhammad Ali fought for.

Lack of Diversity at Supreme

Spike Lee, a black filmmaker, noticed the lack of diversity at Supreme after meeting with them.

Despite claims of working on diversity, Supreme has a lack of representation, especially in leadership positions.

The speaker questions why a company that sold for two billion dollars cannot hire external organizations to help diversify their workforce.

Critique on Supreme's Use of Black Culture

Supreme is criticized for using black culture but not hiring black or brown people.

The speaker highlights that less than 10 percent of Supreme's design team consists of minorities.

This critique extends beyond just hiring black people but also includes other people of color.

Tragically Ironic Situation at Supreme

The speaker discusses the irony surrounding racial insensitivity and lack of diversity at Supreme.

Lack of Black Representation in Leadership Positions

For 30 years, there were no black people in leadership positions (c-suite) at Supreme.

This lack of representation contradicts the collaboration with AJ, which aligned with the brand's principles.

HR Issues and Racial Insensitivity

A former employee complained multiple times about racial insensitivity within the company, documented by HR.

The employee quit due to inequities and wanting opportunities for design.

The speaker emphasizes that racial insensitivity exists throughout the company, not just limited to one individual.

Addressing Systemic Racism and Lack of Diversity

The speaker discusses the existence of systemic racism in corporate America and the need for diversity.

Systemic Racism in Corporate America

The speaker acknowledges that systemic racism exists in corporate America, including Supreme.

They mention a post by Gabriella from Vogue that highlights the reality of systemic racism.

Lack of Diversity Discussion

During a meeting, the lack of diversity at Supreme was brought up, including the absence of collaborations with black female photographer Diana Lawson.

Various individuals within the meeting expressed concerns about the lack of diversity and collaboration opportunities.

Meeting Discussion on Lack of Diversity

The speaker shares details about a meeting where they discussed the lack of diversity at Supreme.

Meeting Participants and Concerns Raised

In a meeting with several individuals, including studio director, head of design, and others, concerns about diversity were raised.

The speaker was not alone in expressing their frustration with the lack of diversity.

Examples such as Dana Lawson's collaboration being missed were mentioned during this discussion.

New CEO's Response to Meeting

The speaker talks about how the new CEO responded to hearing about the meeting discussing diversity issues.

New CEO's Reaction

After learning about the meeting from another employee, the new CEO went to HR along with Aaron McGee (head of design).

It is unclear what actions were taken after this reaction.

Importance of Speaking Up Against Racism

The speaker emphasizes why it is important to speak up against racism and support efforts for inclusivity.

Personal Motivation for Speaking Up

The speaker mentions that they spoke up because people reached out to them through DMs asking for their perspective.

They highlight that if posts or statements gain significant attention or support from influential figures like Naomi Campbell, it helps raise awareness about systemic racism.

Please note that the summary provided is based on the given transcript and may not capture the full context or details of the video.

Wrong Forum and Collabs

The speaker discusses a situation where they brought up various issues, including a designer attacking Virgil, racial implications, and canceled collaborations. They also mention the VP of design going on sabbatical and the ongoing tensions within the company.

Bringing Up Issues

The speaker played a "chess game" to see how far certain issues would be addressed.

They mentioned a designer named Walter van berendak who attacked Virgil for copying designs.

Virgil's collection was inspired by Marc Jacobs and paid homage to him.

Walter's attack on Virgil had racial implications due to Belgium's history with race.

Walter was doing a collaboration with Supreme but it was canceled after he attacked Virgil.

Sabbatical and Tensions

The VP of design went on sabbatical after the speaker brought up the canceled collaboration.

The speaker questions why the collaboration was brought back despite being canceled.

Articles were written about the racial bias in Walter's attack on Virgil.

The speaker emailed the c-suite about these issues as a creative director.

Aaron McGee, VP of design, said she knew about the AJ situation before it blew up.

Internal Dynamics and Roles

The speaker discusses the internal dynamics within the company, comparing them to characters from "Succession." They mention James Logan Roy, Julian as Roman, Kyle as Kendall, and Aaron as shiv. They also touch upon gender biases within Supreme.

Internal Dynamics

The speaker compares individuals within Supreme to characters from "Succession."

James is compared to Logan Roy

Julian is compared to Roman

Kyle is compared to Kendall

Aaron is compared to Shiv

Aaron is disgruntled for not getting the creative director or CEO position.

The speaker highlights that Supreme's issues go beyond race, including misogyny and homophobia.

Aaron took out her frustrations on the speaker, despite them being colleagues.

Unaddressed Issues

The speaker mentions a situation involving an artist collective called Bernadette Corporation and a decision made by James regarding their designs. They express disappointment in the missed opportunity to address gender-related matters.

Unaddressed Issue

The speaker brings up an incident with Bernadette Corporation where one of their designs used controversial language.

James decided not to release the design due to concerns about how men would perceive it.

The speaker wanted to use this as an opportunity to discuss female expression and its deeper meaning.

They express disappointment in not being able to address these gender-related matters.

This summary is based on the provided transcript and has been condensed and paraphrased for clarity.

The Issue of Offensive Clothing

In this section, the speaker discusses a controversial hoodie that had an offensive phrase on it and how it was deemed acceptable. They also highlight the double standards when it comes to offensive clothing for men and women.

A male artist wore a hoodie with an offensive phrase on it, and it was considered fine.

However, when a collaboration with Melvin's featured a similar phrase on the back of a t-shirt, it was canceled due to its offensiveness.

The studio manager, who is a woman, questioned why one was acceptable while the other wasn't.

The speaker points out that white men in the room didn't understand because they have the privilege to be thoughtless about women.

Shifting Focus to Yeezy Work

This section transitions from discussing offensive clothing to talking about the speaker's work with Kanye West (Yeezy). They mention that there have been revolutionary gestures made in fashion through their collaboration.

The conversation shifts towards discussing the speaker's work with Kanye West at Yeezy.

The interviewer acknowledges that there have been some groundbreaking moments in fashion through their collaboration.

The speaker mentions working with Virgil in Milan on a collaboration with no vacation and off-white before being approached by Kanye West.

Collaboration with Kanye West

Here, the speaker shares their experience of meeting Kanye West and working together. They discuss traveling between different locations and their involvement in various aspects such as music and clothing.

After receiving a call from Matt George, CEO of Yeezy, the speaker flew out to New York to meet Kanye West.

They started working together immediately after meeting and traveled extensively for work, including the Pablo tour.

The speaker worked as a creative consultant and eventually became the brand director of Yeezy and creative director of five albums.

They mention working with a team and highlight the influence of mentors like Willow Perone, Virgil, Don C, Jasper, Taz Arnold, Jay-Z, and Dame Dash.

Creative Principles at Yeezy

This section explores the creative principles that drove their work at Yeezy. The speaker emphasizes Kanye West's vision and influences from other artists.

The driving force behind their work at Yeezy was Kanye West's vision and his ability to combine various influences.

They mention Willow Perone as one of Kanye's main mentors who taught him about art direction.

Other influential people mentioned include Virgil, Don C, Jasper, Taz Arnold, Jay-Z, and Dame Dash.

The combination of talented individuals with great ideas and Kanye's talent and work ethic resulted in successful albums.

Due to the length of this transcript excerpt, there are only four sections provided.

Steve Jobs Method and Originality

In this section, Kanye West discusses the approach of Steve Jobs and himself towards understanding what the audience wants. He also explores the concept of originality in art and how ideas are influenced by various sources.

Steve Jobs' Approach and True Genius

Steve Jobs had a method of knowing what the audience wants before they even know it themselves.

Apple doesn't rely on polling or asking the audience; they aim to figure out what people want but don't yet realize they want.

Kanye compares this approach to his own, stating that he tries to hit a target that no one else can see.

True genius aims to hit a target that is not influenced by trends or popular opinion; it strives for originality.

The Myth of Original Ideas

According to Kanye, there is no such thing as an original idea.

As human existence progresses, ideas are built upon what already exists.

Jay-Z's lyric about not creating time but making good use of it reflects this notion.

Artists draw inspiration from various sources, remixing and shifting existing concepts rather than creating something entirely new.

Art as a Reaction and Influence

Kanye refers to art as a thousand-year painting that artists add to over time.

Every addition to the painting is influenced by what has been seen in the artwork since childhood.

Art is a reaction to previous examples and experiences, incorporating elements from personal history and cultural influences.

The Inspiration Behind "Cotton Reef"

Kanye explains how his design called "Cotton Reef" was inspired by multiple sources.

Joseph Campbell's concept of religion meaning "to return to" influenced the circular shape of the cotton wreath, symbolizing a return to America's origins and confronting issues like white supremacy and colonialism.

Cara Walker's Instagram post featuring a cotton reef on a door sparked Kanye's curiosity, leading him to research and eventually create his own version.

The design collaboration with Levi's further solidified the meaning behind the "Cotton Reef" concept.

Ideas and Influences in Art

Kanye emphasizes that ideas don't emerge out of thin air; they are products of the human mind.

Our senses, experiences, and even genetic heritage contribute to the creation of art.

Trusting one's gut feeling and incorporating personal influences leads to the best art that is unique to the individual.

Learning from Virgil Abloh

Kanye acknowledges Virgil Abloh as one of his greatest mentors and friends.

He mentions learning a lot from Virgil but doesn't provide specific details in this section.

Conclusion

In this final section, Kanye briefly reflects on what he has learned from Virgil Abloh but does not go into detail.

The Importance of Self-Confidence

In this section, the speaker emphasizes the significance of self-confidence and how it helps in overcoming challenges and criticism.

Supreme Confidence in Pursuing Goals

The speaker highlights that regardless of what others say, having supreme confidence is crucial.

They mention that even during difficult times when people may doubt or hate, having unwavering self-belief is essential.

The speaker refers to their own experience and states that they always knew what they wanted to do and believed in its validity.

Validation from the Culture

The speaker emphasizes that validation comes from their tribe or group, including friends like Virgil, Benji B, Judah, Martin Rose, Grace Wells Bonner, Sam Ross, and other artists.

They assert that artists and musicians form a validation index for each other rather than seeking validation from external sources.

The speaker acknowledges the importance of carrying forward the culture created by those who came before them.

Compassion and Kindness as Core Values

The speaker mentions being influenced by their parents' mantra of compassion and kindness.

They express admiration for Virgil's super compassionate and kind nature.

The speaker appreciates how Virgil's design philosophy involves changing existing elements while maintaining a connection to the original source.

Remixing Artistic References

This section explores the concept of remixing artistic references and how it applies to different forms of art.

Remixing Artistic References

The speaker compares remixing in art to what Picasso did with African art influences.

They highlight how critics tend to focus on tracing references when it comes to women or people of color's work.

The speaker appreciates Virgil's ability to showcase both the original inspiration and his unique remix in his work.

Seeing the Work and the Remix

The speaker mentions that they appreciate being able to see the process behind Virgil's designs.

They draw a parallel with Jay-Z's song "H to Izzo" as an example of a remix or bricolage rather than mere sampling.

The speaker emphasizes that remixing involves taking inspiration from various sources and creating something new and distinct.

Taking Inspiration from the Past

This section discusses the importance of taking inspiration from the past and incorporating it into modern art forms.

Creating New Art through Collage

The speaker explains how artists like Kanye, Hank Shockley, and Premiere take elements from different sources to create something new.

They contrast Virgil's approach of using less obvious references compared to others like Puffy who use recognizable chunks of existing content.

The speaker highlights how Virgil's design philosophy involves creating connections between seemingly unrelated elements.

Paper Clips as Symbolic Design

The speaker mentions Virgil's use of paper clips in his designs, such as transforming them into gold or platinum chains with diamonds.

They suggest that paper clips can represent forgotten objects or symbolize work, childhood creativity, or unconventional combinations.

The speaker emphasizes that art aims to evoke emotions, and sometimes referencing the past can achieve this effectively.

Connecting Past, Present, and Future through Art

In this final section, the speaker reflects on how art connects past experiences with present emotions while also considering future possibilities.

Making Art That Evokes Emotion

The speaker asserts that the purpose of making art is to make people feel something.

They explain how referencing the past can be a powerful way to evoke emotions in viewers or listeners.

The speaker suggests that combining elements from the past, present, and future can create a profound impact.

Appreciation for the Conversation

The speaker expresses gratitude for the conversation and appreciates being invited to participate.

They convey their admiration for the brilliance of the discussion and express their appreciation for the opportunity.

Conclusion and Next Episode Preview

In this section, Tori concludes the show and provides information about the next episode.

Conclusion and Next Episode Preview

Tori thanks the audience for watching and mentions that the show is written by Toure and produced by Jennifer Brown.

She acknowledges the editors, Ryan Woodhall, and Booker, Claudia Jean.

Tori mentions that the show is distributed by DCP Entertainment.

She expresses excitement about upcoming episodes with more amazing guests.

Tori ends by saying that no one can shut them down.

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