Introduction

In this lesson, Reza introduces the ninth lesson of the "How to Make a Bespoke Jacket" series. He explains that they will be striking out the traditional model of their foundation bundle using the principles covered in the previous lesson.

Striking Out Traditional Model

Reza explains how to strike out the pattern on fabric using the principles covered in the previous lesson.

• Position selvage towards us with fold away from us.

• Position back panel so that center back is facing fold.

• Position front panel next to it with front edge facing selvage.

• Position top sleeve so that hind arm is facing fold with top of sleeve facing right side of fabric.

• Position under sleeve so that hind arm is facing fold but top of sleeve is facing left side of fabric.

• Put side body panel so that side seam is facing selvage.

Cutting Out The Real Deal

Reza demonstrates how to cut out a jacket after laying out your fabric and running steam through it.

• Run steam through both sides of outside of folded fabric.

• Straighten grain if necessary before laying patterns on fabric.

• Mark where edge of layer underneath overlaps if necessary to avoid uneven panels.

Back Panel

This section covers the steps to create the back panel of a suit jacket.

Matching Chest Line and Marking Inlay

• Ensure that the back panel's shoulder line is 3/4 inches or 2 centimeters away from the neck.

• Check that the distance between the fold of the fabric and the back panel's edge is 4 inches or 10 centimeters.

• Match the chest line of your back panel with the weft of your fabric.

• Trace all around the pattern with chalk after ensuring everything is in place.

• Mark solid lines for chest line, top of side seam, back pitch, center vent, and hip line.

Front Panel

This section covers creating a front panel for a suit jacket.

Lapel Edge and Chest Line

• Measure two and a half inches from bottom and three-quarters from where Selvage separates from fabric to mark lapel edge.

• Rotate front panel to ensure chest line matches weft of fabric.

• Trace all around pattern with chalk after ensuring everything is in place.

Marking Details

• Mark details such as chest line, front pitch, brake line, top/bottom first button, center front, hip line, base/top of patch pocket.

• Use soft graphite pencil or chalk pencil to mark points at four corners of outbreast welt, top point/middle point/base of dart intake line/top corner/base/front curve of patch pocket.

Shoulder Inlay

This section covers marking shoulder inlay for both panels.

Back Panel Shoulder Inlay

• Measure three-quarters away from shoulder point on back panel and connect it to edge of inlay on side seam.

• Mark inlay around the neck and center back.

Front Panel Shoulder Inlay

• Add three-quarters or 2 centimeters to shoulder line.

• Add three-quarters outwards from shoulder, half an inch or 1.2 centimeters out from pitch point.

• Connect freehand the shoulder inlay to front side inlay.

Marking Points

This section covers marking points for details that are positioned in the middle of the pattern.

• Use soft graphite pencil or chalk pencil to pick through corners and make a rotating movement to mark points at four corners of outbreast welt, top point/middle point/base of dart intake line/top corner/base/front curve of patch pocket.

• Solidify lines by connecting dots with base of patch pocket, base of dart, corner where step is, top/front of patch pocket.

Outbreast Welt

This section covers marking outbreast welt on front panel.

• Take longer ruler to mark brake line and extend it higher towards shoulder.

• Add one inch above center vent mark for center vent area.

• Mark first button, sleeve pitch right here so double check out breast brake line Center Front button Dart top Point intake Point base patch bucket hip line.

Cutting the Front Panel

In this section, the instructor explains how to cut out the front panel of a jacket.

Marking and Cutting

• Mark a clear line for the front.

• Align your pattern and curve in when you reach the curve.

• Add 1.25 inches (3.2 cm) for the top of the lapel.

• Cut along the outer lines of your panel, cutting the shoulder inlay first.

• Double-check every line that you're cutting and never look at just the point of your scissors or shears.

Cutting the Back Panel

In this section, the instructor explains how to cut out the back panel of a jacket.

Marking and Cutting

• Cut along the outer line of your side body inlay and shoulder inlay around the neck.

• Cut both layers all way to first line marked above vent on both sides.

• Lift up top layer and continue cutting chest line past chest line only on top layer.

• Continue cutting Center backing leg on top layer only all way down.

• Move fabric over and cut lower layer on both layers going towards fold.

Checking Fabric Alignment

In this section, before proceeding with other panels, instructor explains how to check if fabric alignment is correct.

Checking Fabric Alignment

• Double-check if salvage is matching on all layers.

• Check if grain is still straight and perpendicular to salvage.

• Correct it if not aligned properly.

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