🔴 Ex-Inspector de la Guía Michelin: Secretos de 35 años valorando los mejores restaurantes 🍽✨

Interview with Victoriano Porto: Insights from a Michelin Inspector

Introduction to Victoriano Porto

• Victoriano Porto served as a Michelin inspector for 34.5 years, participating in 35 editions of the guide.

• He reflects on his career and shares insights about the latest edition of the Michelin Guide (2024), which he did not contribute to.

Journey to Becoming a Michelin Inspector

• Initially, Porto viewed his role as a temporary transition while teaching hospitality at INEN.

• After applying for the position through an ad, he faced intense competition with 472 applicants; only two were selected.

• To qualify, he needed five years of experience in hospitality and fluency in French and Portuguese.

The Impact of Being an Inspector

• Porto describes how being an inspector changed his life significantly, involving constant travel and social scrutiny regarding restaurant recommendations.

• He notes that people often seek his advice on dining but can be critical if their experiences do not meet expectations.

Work-Life Balance Challenges

• The job requires extensive travel, leading to missed family moments; he mentions not seeing his daughter grow up due to work commitments.

• Despite its challenges, including solitary meals and long hours, he finds value in learning from diverse culinary experiences.

Dining Experience as an Inspector

• Most inspections are conducted solo for cost efficiency; however, safety concerns sometimes necessitate traveling with another inspector.

• Over time, Porto became accustomed to dining alone and found it beneficial for focusing on the food rather than social distractions.

Evaluation Process at Restaurants

• Before visiting restaurants, inspectors review historical data from previous visits by colleagues to inform their choices during meals.

• Post-meal reports take about 90 minutes to complete and include detailed evaluations of various aspects like service quality and dish presentation.

Criteria for Michelin Stars

• A restaurant must demonstrate exceptional cooking quality and attention to detail across multiple parameters to earn stars.

Information Gathering Techniques

• Inspectors utilize online resources such as restaurant websites and social media reviews before visiting new establishments.

Personal Experiences with Notable Restaurants

• Porto recalls impactful dining experiences throughout his career that shaped his understanding of excellence in cuisine.

Culinary Insights and Michelin Star Experiences

The Impact of El Bulli on Culinary Evaluation

• The speaker reflects on their first experience at El Bulli, describing it as a revelation with unique flavors and textures that challenged their understanding of culinary excellence.

• Doubts arose regarding the ability to evaluate El Bulli's cuisine for Michelin stars due to its unprecedented nature; the director questioned whether it deserved two stars.

• Two colleagues were sent to reassess El Bulli, ultimately concluding it did not merit two stars, leaving the speaker anxious about job security during their probation period.

• The director encouraged learning from mistakes while emphasizing the importance of decision-making in Michelin evaluations, leading to eventual recognition of El Bulli's excellence.

• Years later, the director reminisced about this pivotal moment, highlighting how El Bulli became recognized as the best restaurant in the world.

Learning Through Experience

• The speaker acknowledges a lack of preparedness for evaluating such innovative cuisine at El Bulli after only five months in their role.

• They express admiration for contemporary chefs like David Muñoz and Ángel León, noting their ability to create complex flavor profiles that challenge traditional culinary norms.

• Emphasis is placed on balancing flavors within dishes; Muñoz excels at combining multiple strong flavors harmoniously.

• Newer restaurants are also highlighted for their potential impact on future generations of gastronomy, showcasing a vibrant culinary landscape in Spain.

Evaluating Restaurant Quality

• Upon entering a restaurant, inspectors conduct thorough assessments based on cleanliness, ambiance, service quality, and overall presentation before tasting food.

• While many focus solely on food quality when awarding stars, attention to detail across all aspects is crucial for evaluation consistency.

• Some simple restaurants achieve high ratings due to exceptional cooking despite less impressive facilities; however, this is rare outside Asia.

Challenges After Receiving Stars

• Chefs often contact inspectors post-award seeking advice but are cautioned against drastic changes that could jeopardize their success following star recognition.

• Many establishments see significant increases in clientele after receiving stars; however, some fail by overextending themselves or losing focus on core offerings.

Notable Success Stories Post-Star Recognition

• A recent example includes Chef Elio’s restaurant experiencing a 100% increase in revenue after earning its first Michelin star due to newfound visibility and demand.

• Other rural restaurants have similarly thrived post-recognition by leveraging increased media attention and customer interest.

Consequences of Losing Stars

• Instances exist where restaurants have struggled or closed after losing Michelin stars due to management distractions or declining quality standards.

• The process of removing a star is approached cautiously since it can significantly impact livelihoods associated with those establishments.

Inspector Practices and Perceptions

• Inspectors often check restrooms upon arrival as an indicator of overall cleanliness and kitchen standards; this practice stems from hospitality training backgrounds.

• Myths surrounding inspector behaviors (like dropping cutlery intentionally for assessment purposes), are debunked as unfounded rumors rather than standard practices among professionals.

Evaluating Food Quality During Inspections

• Key factors assessed include plate presentation, temperature control (especially critical for items like jamón ibérico), texture variety within dishes, and overall flavor balance.

• Inspectors prefer sauces served alongside rather than smothering dishes directly—allowing diners more control over flavor combinations.

Importance of Service Quality

• Service quality has become increasingly valued within fine dining experiences; well-trained staff enhance overall guest satisfaction significantly.

• Examples from top-tier restaurants illustrate how exemplary service contributes positively towards achieving high ratings within Michelin evaluations.

The Role of Independence in Gastronomic Critique

Impact of Financial Relationships on Objectivity

• Inviting critics can compromise their independence and objectivity, as those who pay for meals may influence the review process.

• Critics should ideally remain detached from financial incentives to maintain credibility in their evaluations.

The Influence of Social Media on Gastronomy

• Social media has amplified interest in gastronomy, paralleling other entertainment sectors like cinema and sports.

• Chefs have become public figures due to this interest, contrasting with less visibility for medical professionals despite their critical roles.

Health Considerations for Food Critics

Managing Caloric Intake

• Inspectors often consume excessive calories during tastings, leading to potential health issues if not managed properly.

• Alcohol consumption is also a concern; critics must balance enjoyment with moderation to avoid negative health impacts.

Experiences with Restaurant Owners

• Critics face pressure from restaurant owners regarding alcohol choices during meals, highlighting the need for discretion in tasting experiences.

• There are challenges in managing expectations when tasting small portions without appearing unappreciative.

Integrity and Pressure within Michelin Ratings

Independence from External Pressures

• The speaker emphasizes that no external pressures have influenced Michelin ratings throughout his career.

• Decisions about star ratings are made independently by inspectors without interference from commercial interests or restaurant owners.

Historical Anecdote on Pressure

• A past incident illustrates how even high-ranking officials at Michelin respected the integrity of inspectors' decisions against personal preferences.

Navigating Criticism and Chef Relationships

Handling Tensions with Chefs

• Maintaining professionalism is crucial when facing criticism; some chefs may react defensively but constructive dialogue is essential.

Advice for Aspiring Chefs

• New chefs should focus on customer satisfaction rather than obsessing over Michelin stars; excellence will naturally lead to recognition.

Importance of Culinary Foundations

Balancing Tradition and Innovation

• Successful culinary innovation relies on a strong foundation in traditional cooking techniques and local ingredients.

Emphasis on Seasonal Ingredients

• Utilizing seasonal produce enhances quality while promoting sustainability within the culinary industry.

Sustainability and Business Viability

Evaluating Restaurant Profitability

• While Michelin does not directly assess profitability, it considers long-term viability when awarding stars based on quality indicators.

Focus on Zero Waste Practices

• Sustainable practices such as zero waste cooking are highlighted as essential components of modern gastronomy.

Criteria for Awarding Stars

Key Factors Influencing Star Ratings

• Four pillars: installations, service, cuisine, and price relationship determine star eligibility.

• Quality must be consistent across all areas for a restaurant to receive recognition.

Transitioning Between Star Levels

• Moving from one star to two requires exceptional quality that stands out significantly among competitors.

• Commitment and effort play crucial roles alongside talent in achieving higher accolades.

Challenges of Running a Restaurant

Initial Struggles with Staff

• The speaker recounts the difficulties faced in the first five months of running a restaurant, including high employee turnover and tardiness.

• A chef dramatically left during peak hours, highlighting the intense pressure within the restaurant environment.

Personal Connections and Support

• Despite challenges, strong friendships developed with staff members, particularly with a second-in-command who took charge when the chef left.

• The speaker's wife experienced emotional stress due to her lack of experience in the industry but managed to keep operations afloat.

Learning from Experience

Insights Gained from Adversity

• The experience was traumatic for his wife but provided valuable lessons for the speaker, fostering admiration for restaurateurs.

• The demands of running a restaurant are all-consuming; even when not working, thoughts about business persist.

Balancing Employee Rights and Business Viability

• There is an ongoing struggle between customer expectations and employee rights; customers often overlook the pressures on business owners.

• Emphasizes that both employees and employers must advocate for fair treatment and respect each other's time constraints.

Economic Realities in Hospitality

Pricing Challenges

• Discusses how unrealistic pricing (e.g., low prices for drinks or food items) undermines fair wages and operational sustainability.

• Highlights that maintaining quality service while ensuring profitability is increasingly difficult under current economic conditions.

Respecting Operational Hours

• Stresses that customers need to respect closing times; late requests can lead to burnout among staff.

Current Trends in Dining Experiences

Recommendations for Dining Out

• Shares personal preferences for dining at "Big Gurman" restaurants known for their quality experiences despite being less frequented due to budget constraints.

Notable Restaurants Mentioned:

• Ovalado:

• Located near Santiago, offers tasting menus in a cozy setting.

• Known for its homey atmosphere and excellent wine recommendations.

• Prices range from €38 to €45.

• El Molín de Mingo:

• Situated in Asturias, features exquisite local dishes like rice with pitu de caleya.

• Offers stunning views and meticulous attention to detail.

• Menu prices around €45 to €48.

Transitioning into Consultancy

New Career Path

• Currently advising various restaurants on menu design, presentation, and overall operation as he approaches retirement.

Knowledge Sharing Importance:

• Emphasizes that sharing knowledge is crucial; without transmission of skills learned over years, they risk being lost.

Inspirational Figures in Gastronomy

Recommended Interviewee: Marcos Granda

• Praises Marcos Granda as an exceptional talent manager within gastronomy who excels at retaining skilled teams while managing successful restaurants across Spain.

Key Attributes:

• Granda is recognized not only as a sommelier but also as an outstanding manager capable of achieving Michelin star ratings quickly after opening new establishments.