Patek Phillipe Service and Maintenance (Long English version)
The Idea of Luxury and Service at Patek Philippe
In this section, the speaker talks about the idea of luxury and service at Patek Philippe. They believe that their watches should last forever and insist that customers go to an official retailer for repairs.
Luxury and Service at Patek Philippe
- The idea of luxury is to provide a service for a family business like Patek Philippe.
- Patek Philippe believes that their watches should last forever, which is why they insist on customers going back to an official retailer for repairs.
- Official retailers are trained and have years of experience in taking care of watches in the best way possible.
- After 30 years, some parts may need to be redone as they no longer exist. However, Patek Philippe has the tools, knowledge, and people to restart from scratch if needed.
- This know-how has been present since 1839, and it's essential to keep watches accurate and beautiful by cleaning them every five years.
Restoration Process at Patek Philippe
In this section, the speaker talks about how Patek Philippe restores watches. They use spare parts produced directly in the production area to ensure quality.
Restoration Process at Patek Philippe
- Within the last two years, more customers have been bringing their watches for restoration in different states.
- Spare parts used by the service are produced directly in the production area to ensure quality.
- Some interventions require old machinery or craftsmanship not taught in modern watchmaking schools.
- It's Patek Philippe's commitment to ensure that craftsmanship is passed down to the next generation.
Dismantling and Reassembly Process
In this section, the speaker talks about the dismantling and reassembly process of watches at Patek Philippe.
Dismantling and Reassembly Process
- The watchmaker begins by removing the movement from the case and carrying out a diagnostic test to check its accuracy.
- A mechanical movement contains between 150 and 350 individual parts, depending on its complexity.
- Once dismantled, components are taken to be cleaned using special liquids and ultrasound.
- During reassembly, hundreds of different mounting procedures must be observed, all components reinstated in their respective places in the correct order. Adjustments are made between components to ensure proper function.
Importance of Proper Oil Usage
The importance of using the right amount of oil in a watch to prevent wear and tear.
Proper Oil Usage
- Using too much oil can cause it to spread where it isn't needed, resulting in wear and tear and eventual failure.
Final Assembly of the Movement
The final steps taken by the watchmaker before the movement is cased up.
Placing the Dial on the Movement
- The watchmaker places the dial on the movement while checking for smooth operation.
- The space between the dial and gear trains is checked for smooth operation.
Checking Functions and Accuracy
- The hands are driven into arbors, and functions are checked before casing up.
- Accuracy rate is adjusted and checked in six different positions corresponding to common positions of a watch.
- Checked against Patek Phillipe quality control criteria.
Polishing Process
Details about polishing techniques used during refurbishment.
Traditional Polishing Techniques
- All polishing is carried out only at owner's request.
- Marks and scratches may hold sentimental value, so they will be kept if requested.
- Disc coated with abrasive paste made of fabric felt natural or synthetic hair depending on desired effect.
- Free-floating hand polishing technique used without pressure.
- Satin finishing uses plates covered in very fine emery paper discs specifically used to refurbish case back.
- Emery stick polishing uses wooden baton covered with extremely fine emery paper, adapted depending on requirements.
- Laser soldering used to reattach exterior case components and fill any deep imperfections that are not rectifiable by polishing.
Diamond Polishing
- Used only rarely to restore a mirror finish to case surfaces which traditional cloth polishing wheels are not suitable for.
- Diamond tipped cutting tool attached to special lathe is used to gently remove minuscule amounts of case material.
- Specific operation used on edges that retains angles and original shape of the case.
Rhodium Plating
- Involves coating with a fine layer of rhodium by electrolysis.
- Often used to give a beautiful color to white gold or for certain movement parts.
Final Assembly and Testing
The final steps taken before returning the watch to the owner.
Glass Fitting and Waterproof Testing
- After polishing, glass is fitted onto the case.
- New gaskets are fitted, and waterproof watches are tested for water resistance.
Final Aesthetic Control
- A final aesthetic control is completed before returning the watch to the owner.
Final Assembly of Movement
- The final assembly of the movement is undertaken in a clean or dust-free environment called a laminar flow.
- The watchmaker replaces the rotor during this process, cleans inside front of case before putting movement back in place.
- Silicon touch improves crown functionality.
- Case heated slightly to remove any humidity that may have accumulated.
- Case back definitively closed.
Quality Control Process
This section describes the quality control process for watches.
Final Control Process
- The final control process lasts 14 working days and consists of a series of tests to verify the aesthetics and functional controls.
- Tests include self-winding speed, power reserve accuracy, and water resistance.
- If the timepiece is still running after the defined power reserve test period it moves on to the next test.
Kinetic Simulation
- Kinetic simulation aims to simulate the movement on a customer's wrist.
- Various dynamic and static observations are conducted over a 48-hour period.
Water Resistance Control
- Water resistance control is performed only on watches that are guaranteed to be water-resistant.
- They are tested by means of leak flow rate test.
- The watch is placed in a pressurized cavity for around 30 seconds.
- If no air seeps into the watch, the test is passed.
Final Inspection
- After successfully completing all tests, including visual inspection and function check, the watch undergoes a final visual inspection.
- It is set to time, reattached with its bracelet, and placed into vacuum packaging ready to be returned to its owner.
The quality control process for watches involves several tests that verify aesthetics and functional controls such as self-winding speed, power reserve accuracy, water resistance among others. Watches that pass all tests undergo a final visual inspection before being packaged for delivery.
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